Jun 16, 2009 | DIY, Media
Ever since candy-colored ombre tights strolled down the Lacroix Spring 2008 Couture runway (top left; bottom right), the fashion blogosphere has been atwitter: check out Fashionista’s DIY ombre tights tutorial; BrightestYoungThings; Nelliina (in Finnish, but gorgeous pix!); BurdaStyle’s how-to; and The Coveted. Tie-dye’s sophisticated older sister has also proved a fun and fresh way to upgrade summer whites and chic solids.
However, the gradient- or dip-dying process is so labor intensive that the pricetags can be less than breezy, which is why you might want to save some cash and try doing it yourself.
Ready? Here’s what you’ll need to know:
1. CHOOSE THE RIGHT ITEM TO DYE For your first attempt, keep it simple by choosing something white. The fabrics that best take dye are natural: 100% cotton, linen, rayon, wool, and silk. At the very least, make sure the fabric content includes at least 50% of one of these dyeable fibers, and avoid the following: anything 100% polyester, acrylic, or labeled “COLD WATER WASH” OR “DRY CLEAN ONLY”.
2. PROPER PREPARATION It’s important to get rid of any stains or surface dirt, so be sure to pre-wash – however, there’s no need to dry it. Fill up a tub large enough to accommodate whatever you’re dying; follow the dye instructions to determine if the water should be cold, warm, or hot. Wet the article of clothing thoroughly, and wring out any excess water. And lest you want ombre’d hands, don’t forget to put on gloves!
3. CHOOSE YOUR OMBRE EFFECT For white-to-color, create two variations on a single color – eg. light green and dark green – and pour into two separate dyebaths. Take the top part of your garment that is to remain undyed, and clip to a plastic clothes hanger. Dip the end of your item in the lighter color, submerging 2/3 into the dyebath; swish back and forth for 2-10 minutes, depending on how dark you want the lighter color to be (remember: colors look darker when wet!). Then submerge 2/3 of the dyed section into the darker color. Alternatively, set up three dyebaths containing three variations of the same color, and dip in the same order: 1. Light; 2. Medium; 3. Dark. For example, start with Evening Blue (your Light color), then dip 2/3 of the Evening Blue section in Royal Blue (Medium), and finally, dip 2/3 of the Royal Blue section in Navy (Dark). As you dip, let gravity help with blending the colors. To use more than a single color, choose colors that, when mixed, create a pretty third color – for example, yellow and pink mix together to create coral. First dip 2/3 of the garment in Color #1, then turn it upside down and dip 2/3 of it into Color #2 – the overlapped 1/3 will automatically create Color #3 (in the center). For a Diane von Furstenberg inspired look (top runway photo, bottom left), try yellow, pink, and dark orange. Dip-dye 1/3 of the garment with Color #1. Turn it upside down, and dip 2/3 into Color #2. Re-dip the bottom 1/3 in the darkest color #3. The result: 3 separate colors, fading artfully into one another.
4. RINSE Rinse according to the dye instructions, starting from the undyed or lightly-dyed section in the direction you want the dye to concentrate. For 2- or 3- color dye jobs, keep the garment horizontal to the faucet and spray water on the surface instead.
5. MAKE IT PERMANENT Dry according to the dye package instructions, and the next time you wash your item, prevent any dye bleeding onto the rest of your laundry by washing in cold water – or, even better, hand-washing.
HELPFUL HINTS Prefer to watch instead of read? Check out this quirky Ombre Dying Video from EdiesFashionFactory. Dig good ole’ paper? Dyes & Paints: A Hands-On Guide to Coloring Fabric
is one of the most comprehensive guides on fabric dyeing and painting techniques. (Finally, a solution on how to spruce up that old t-shirt in the back of your closet!) Additionally, the RIT Dye website features yet more dyeing tips, tricks, and answers to common questions.
Still have questions? Email me at CarlyJCais AT FashionTribes.com. Otherwise, happy DIY-ing!
– Carly J. Cais
(photos: runway top left – Lacroix Couture Spring 2008; top right – Burberry Prorsum; bottom left: DVF; bottom right – Lacroix Couture; all Style.com; Ombre how-to demos – all Edie’s Fashion Factory)
(originally posted on FashionTribes.com)
Jun 3, 2009 | Fashion, Media
Friday the 13th of February saw the Academy of Art University present 6 outstanding student collections at the Bryant Park tents. “This season it’s all about collaborations: we want to prepare these young designers to go into the industry,” said Ian MacKintosh, Academy of Arts University In-House Public Relations. [Once in the industry] “they’re not going to be working by themselves; they’re not an island, they are working as a team in a design team atmosphere; they’re learning how to share ideas, morph ideas, and take ideas further.” Four of the six shows were the product of collaborative efforts between a textile designer and a fashion designer, where the concept for the clothing was devised between the two, and the textile designer then created the fabrics the fashion designer used to construct the garments. With such a melding of upcoming raw talent, the variety and innovation of the looks was both astounding and inspiring.
Heather Howard and Cat Janky showcased a collection (pictured above)
in a muted palette of grays, navies, pale denim blues, browns, and beiges; utilizing about 20% eco-friendly fabrics, and referencing a historical early 1900’s-silhouette with exaggerated lengths, longer waists, and mini collars. Textile designer Janky overdyed many of the fabrics and then printed them using silkscreening, pigment discharge and burnout techniques. Sketches of historical faces, ghostly pine trees, and antiqued plaid lent a vintage and aged feel.
(above, Sam Francis artwork, AllPosters.com; some looks from the runway show)
I-Shan Lou and Myoung Hee Kim created standout pieces by knitting shapes in angora wool and bonding rice-paper and chiffons printed with bold splashes of color onto them, a la Sam Francis and his abstract, splashy paintings in bright hues. Paired with black and white checkered leggings, the models exuded an 80’s feel, and the oversized knitted sweaterdresses and jackets seemed the perfect toppers for the artsy, fashion-forward gal.
(above, Leslie Shows’ artwork from jackhanley.com; some looks from the runway show)
Emily Melville and Ivaka Georgieva produced structured dresses with ethereal marble-like prints that could easily have found their way onto the pages of Vogue. Wool coats and dresses took on unconventional forms through unusual pleating and construction techniques; inspired by the work of landscape artist Leslie Shows the pieces were printed in sinewy grays, thin streaks of coral, and undulating beiges. The fluid colors graced hems and sides; the overall effect was ladylike and delicate.
The Britex Fabric Project showcased the work of a number of different students who used donated Britex fabrics to create paperbag-waisted pants and wool crepe dresses.
We also saw student Qianya Martin produce a collection of knitwear interspersed with sheer paneling; inspired by the tide pools and sand of Agate Beach in Bolinas, CA. She created a 60’s silhouette using sculptural knitting techniques, boning, invisible thread, and 3D shaping to fashion volumionous coats an zebra-like dresses in stripes of black and tan, with sheer fabrics in between. “I want people to have an appreciation for what’s beautiful already,” she said. “When we walk down the street, everything we see can have beauty in it, and I tend to live my life like that.”
Finally, student Scott McFarland showed a menswear collection dominated by textural, puffy sweaters with pink and gray diamond patterns woven into the yarns. Art Deco played a significant role in his inspiration for the collection, and he paired the pastel gray and cream hues with loose thermal underwear leggings and knitted accessories. Shape and 3D detailing stood out – though the color palette may have been not masculine enough (read: too fashion-forward) for some.
Overall the AAU show started New York Fashion Week off on an innovative, fresh foot – and any environment that fosters such creativity and forward-thinking while remaining grounded in the realities of surviving in this business – is to be celebrated. We look forward to what these talented designers will move on to in the future.
-Carly J. Cais
All runway photos by Scott Gries, Getty Images for IMG.
As posted by me on FashionTribes.com
May 28, 2009 | Fashion, Media
Photographed by Valentina
Frugiuele, this “Parisian Apocalypse” shoot was realized by Raoul Keil (director of Nineteen74.com, a global networking site for media, graphics, and fashion professionals), and directed by Nicholas Hardy from Factory 311. All 12 talents on the shoot were also members of Nineteen74, and you can watch the video of the backstage to the shoot here. Find out more about the concept after the jump…
PARISIAN APOCALYPSE
“The city of light is now permanently dark. The year is 2509. The streets are no longer paved; now wild and overgrown with weeds. Animals roam the streets, slipping in and out between ravaged models and restless stylists. The worlds fashion capital has become a battle ground where business, culture and creativity has been forced out onto the streets to duke it out. To find the light. To shine. The creative apocalypse has arrived.
Those who will survive are the ones who can stand out in the dark; those who realize that not all is fair in love and war; those who turn their passion into all out competition. Survivors are those who are part of Nineteen74.com.”
Dark, edgy, and I’m totally in fear of futuristic Paris. And is that model wearing only a G-string or something less?
-Carly J. Cais
May 25, 2009 | Fashion, Media
(Shoes photos, Matthew Peyton, Getty Images North America; runway photos, Marcio Madeira, Style.com)
It’s been awhile since Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in NYC has drawn to a close (Feb 13-20, 2009, to be exact) but with Fall already on the way we wanted to pass on the tips and trends we saw only a few months ago.
Drawing inspiration from the group of French dandies called Les Incroyables that formed in the 18th Century following the French Revolution, designer Laura Poretzky showcased a tightly edited, elegantly cohesive Collection. Just as the group of gentlemen focused on tailored, regal pieces evoking a more opulent time, the designer put efforts into shape and fit; creating a sumptuous collection of versatile separates. The palette was sophisticated and muted in vintage-like “tarnished” hues: washed tones of black and gunmetal gray, sterling blue, colonial blue, dove gray, regal purple, and dusty rose. With exquisite tailoring and a focus on the beauty of fabric and texture, this collection stood out as the designer seemed to truly be hitting her stride. And to add the crowning touch: beautiful, drool-worthy shoes (the Antoine, Rousseau, and Dauphin) in velveteen and suede, from the Abaeté for Payless Collection due to be out in stores in August of 2009.
Elegant coats with sewn-in vests, nipped-in jackets with tails, layered silken ascots, slim-cut twill pants, wide swing skirts, tiered layering and petals, and regal striped wool separates evoked a time period of genteel joie de vivre. Jackets were constructed with sewn-in vests in order to function as a double-layered piece in the working woman’s wardrobe. Deep sterling blue silk dresses were shot through with silver lurex threads: the pieces literally looked as if the night sky was walking down the runways. Black and cream, gunmetal gray, and deep blues spoke of romance and longing – and all ensembles were accented by the most intricately beautiful accessories fashioned by jewelry designer Thea Grant: filigree gold brooches, multi-chain gold belts, and tiny pin accents that elevated the look to an entirely new regal level.
The hair and makeup was utterly gorgeous – and stayed true to the Victorian French masculine aesthetic. Beauty.com celebrity makeup artist Tina Turnbow (Tarte Cosmetics), said that the healthy “no makeup” look she did on the models is easy to recreate by first prepping the skin with Caudalie Beauty Elixir ($15), enhanced with grape, rose, and myrrh extracts to brighten the complexion. She then applied Tarte Smooth Operator foundation ($35), which gave a little more coverage than the average tinted moisturizer, to let the models’ skin shine through. She used a little bit of Tarte Lash Hugger Eco-Friendly Natural Mascara ($18) on the eyelashes, and Liquid Sunshine Vitamin-Infused LipGloss on the lips to give a natural rosy gold tone ($21). Finally she applied a dusting of powder over the eyebrows to tone them down and make the look more masculine to emulate the Les Incroyables inspiration. All in all it created a healthy, refreshing look for Fall, pairing with the dark tones of the Collection nicely.
See a behind-the-scenes video footage of the look at http://video.beauty.com/p/107/revolutionary-beauty/
(Les incroyables watercolor by G. Galat, from RubyLane.com; all other photos, Carly J. Cais for FashionTribes.com)
Lead hair stylist Mario Ruiz created super-coiffed pompadours and “basically made [the models] look like 18th-century French rock stars.” He first teased the top of the hair and shaped it into a faux-mohawk rockabilly-type look, and then pulled it back into a reverse French braid in the back, weaving a black ribbon throughout. RedKen WorkForce 9 Flexible Volumizing Spray ($14) was a must for achieving the necessary texture and holding the hair style; and one of its great features is that it won’t flake and you can brush and restyle the hair as needed and it will still hold.
All in all, it was a sumptuous, opulent collection, with fantastic separates, jewelry, and insanely affordable shoes; exquisite styling choices, and a makeup look that was just as doable in the “real world”…it flowed together seamlessly, and felt like one of those rare Collections where every element hit the right note. Bravo!
-Carly J. Cais, as posted on FashionTribes.com
Feb 1, 2009 | Fashion, Media
With such a fashionable, model-tall First Lady newly in the White House, the buzz surrounding her sartorial sensibilities is proof that fashion and the national mood go hand in hand. To get Michelle Obama’s effortless American-chic look, go for clean, classic cuts, bold colors and patterns, and opt for minimal jewelry – a few smaller pieces speak volumes. Also, like the First Lady, pay attention to the details: the color of a coat’s lining (think the
Narciso Rodriguez pre-inauguration camel coat); a belt cinched over an unbuttoned cardigan; a brooch pinned dead-center on the collar of the dress instead of near the shoulder. All add stylish flair and a touch of individuality to whatever you’re wearing, and yet you will still appear appropriate, ladylike and polished.
Here are our Top 5 well-priced (ie. under $100) picks for staples seen on Mrs. O, plus a fun splurge:
1. CLASSIC COAT & FUN ACCENTS We’ve seen a variety of fabulously chic toppers on Mrs. O from a number of designers, ranging from Maria Pinto to Sonia Rykiel to Narciso Rodriguez. What she obviously looks for in a coat is wool, a long A-line silhouette that’s single-breasted, a solid color, and sometimes a dramatic sleeve. Our pick: a timeless camel classic you’ll reach for time and time (and time and time…) again. Accessorize with a dark navy or black scarf, a jumbled beaded necklace a la the First Lady’s Tom Binns necklace, or, if you’re feeling patriotic, a teeny flag pin (made less cheesy by merit of lots of real bling, like this version crafted from diamonds, rubies & sapphires in 18k white gold from HeavenlyTreasures.com). Single-Breasted Long Wool Coat $99.99 (on sale, was $239) – available in Camel, Chocolate, Blackberry, Winter White & Red – at Chadwicks.com.
STYLE TIP: According to reviews of this coat, it’s quite long, so be sure to take it to your fave tailor and get it shortened to the perfect length for you….after all, it’s what Mrs. O would do.
2. COLORFUL MULTI-TASKING SHEATH Lemongrass, sea blue, fire red, fuschia, cobalt, chartreuse, and bottle green…just a few of the bright colors we’ve seen her in. The most popular, however, is probably the iconic purple Maria Pinto sheath she appeared in on the cover of Newsweek. To work similarly vibrant colors into your own wardrobe, follow her style savvy by also choosing a classic silhouette, typically a sheath with princess-seams, a conservative jewel neckline, and flattering knee length. With the right accessories, it’s a cinch to completely transform this wardrobe mainstay: try a high black belt and pearls, a dark-toned cardigan and slick patent pumps, or a looped silk scarf and python-print clutch. Sheath Dress $49 – available in Vibrant Fuschia, Black & Red – at Newport-News.com.
STYLE TIP: The more wild the print or color of a garment, the more timeless its cut & silhouette should be. The tension between the edgy hue and conservative cut is what creates balance, making you look fashionably trendy instead of faddish & fashion-victim’ish.
3. GLITTERY BROOCH The Carole Tannenbaum vintage pin on the center-front of the chartreuse lace Isabel Toledo Inauguration Day dress (be sure to scroll down) was one-of-a-kind, but you can take inspiration from Michelle Obama’s unusual placement choice by pinning a similar sparkling brooch in the same place. For best results, pair with a round-collared coat. This bow-shaped brooch is adorned with Austrian crystal rhinestones in marquise and round cuts, in a shape that is simultaneously contemporary and classic, (not to mention collectible). Eisenberg Ice Bow Pin $45 at MRJewelry.net.
STYLE TIP: For even more unusual ways to wear a sparkly pin, try pinning a wide satin ribbon at your waist instead of a belt, perhaps threading it through a cardigan’s buttonholes as a makeshift closure, or even pinning onto a cashmere beret Gossip Girl-style.
4. LIGHTWEIGHT CARDI Although the J. Crew cardigan ensemble she wore to the Kids Inaugural concert is already sold out, you can still get the punchy color from Gap’s new line in collaboration with Pantone. Chock full of Crayola colors and vibrant hues, it’s a guaranteed way to breathe some fresh life into the doldrums of a flagging economy (not to mention your wardrobe). Superfine cotton and slimmer fit emphasize a feminine figure, while the staggering array of colors – sunny yellow to sorbet orange, tan to teal, black to heather gray – means you’re guaran
teed to find something you love. And the best part? This closet staple is lightweight enough to be worn year-round, making it a sound investment as a layering essential. The new V-neck Cardigan $44 at Gap.com. 
(Michelle Obama image: dailymail.co.uk)
STYLE TIP: Pair your brightly colored cardi with shoes in a darker hue & a contrasting skirt; snappy combinations include yellow & jewel blue, royal blue& orange sorbet, and spring green with light coral. For an added touch of First Lady fab, cinch with a thin belt worn high on the natural waistline.
5. PATENT BALLET FLATS Steal a page from the Michelle Obama style playbook by pairing a structured dress with an understated flat. Whether you choose go-with-everything black, a metallic snakeskin to rock the season’s reptilian trend, or even sweet white satin, you’ll look Mrs. O-perfect whether you’re in a chic frock, more mod with bright tights and a mini, or slouching casually out the door in cuffed boyfriend jeans. Keepsake black crinkle-patent flats $59.00 at SteveMadden.com. 
STYLE TIP: Gently rounded-toe ballet flats are one of the best fashion investments you can make…ever. They are versatile, comfy, and because you can wear them for years, they quickly pay for themselves.
Splurge of the Week: ONE-SHOULDERED GOWN Although she wears many high-end designers, one of the best facets of Mrs. O’s style is that she mixes high with low, proudly sporting pieces from affordable retailers. While the one-shouldered Jason Wu confection she wore to the Inaugural Ball is probably out of most of our pricepoints – a typical Wu evening gown retails between $3,000-$6,000, and the designer has no plans to reproduce the dress for sale – try a similar style that was featured on Inside Edition from eDressMe.com. Even though it only costs about a tenth as much, this version still features a single ruched shoulder with embellishment, a high waist, and a floor-length skirt, as well as tiny flowered sequins similar to the hand-sewn flowers on Mrs. O’s custom dress. One-shoulder white gown $320 at eDressMe.com. 
STYLE TIP: With a dress this gorge, the only thing appropriate would be a miniscule white evening clutch to let the ball gown’s beauty shine on its own.
If there are any high-priced pieces you’d like me to find similar, less costly versions of, please email me at carlyjcais AT fashiontribes DOT com.
– by Carly J. Cais, Fashiontribes Contributing Editor
Ever since candy-colored ombre tights strolled down the Lacroix Spring 2008 Couture runway (top left; bottom right), the fashion blogosphere has been atwitter: check out Fashionista’s DIY ombre tights tutorial; BrightestYoungThings; Nelliina (in Finnish, but gorgeous pix!); BurdaStyle’s how-to; and The Coveted. Tie-dye’s sophisticated older sister has also proved a fun and fresh way to upgrade summer whites and chic solids.
HELPFUL HINTS Prefer to watch instead of read? Check out this quirky Ombre Dying Video from EdiesFashionFactory. Dig good ole’ paper? Dyes & Paints: A Hands-On Guide to Coloring Fabric
