NY Fashion Week: Academy of Art Fall 2009 Runway Show Coverage

Friday the 13th of February saw the Academy of Art University present 6 outstanding student collections at the Bryant Park tents. “This season it’s all about collaborations: we want to prepare these young designers to go into the industry,” said Ian MacKintosh, Academy of Arts University In-House Public Relations. [Once in the industry] “they’re not going to be working by themselves; they’re not an island, they are working as a team in a design team atmosphere; they’re learning how to share ideas, morph ideas, and take ideas further.” Four of the six shows were the product of collaborative efforts between a textile designer and a fashion designer, where the concept for the clothing was devised between the two, and the textile designer then created the fabrics the fashion designer used to construct the garments. With such a melding of upcoming raw talent, the variety and innovation of the looks was both astounding and inspiring.

Heather Howard and Cat Janky showcased a collection (pictured above) in a muted palette of grays, navies, pale denim blues, browns, and beiges; utilizing about 20% eco-friendly fabrics, and referencing a historical early 1900’s-silhouette with exaggerated lengths, longer waists, and mini collars. Textile designer Janky overdyed many of the fabrics and then printed them using silkscreening, pigment discharge and burnout techniques. Sketches of historical faces, ghostly pine trees, and antiqued plaid lent a vintage and aged feel. 

 

Academy of Art University: I-Shan Lou & Myoung Hee Kim
(above, Sam Francis artwork, AllPosters.com; some looks from the runway show)

I-Shan Lou and Myoung Hee Kim created standout pieces by knitting shapes in angora wool and bonding rice-paper and chiffons printed with bold splashes of color onto them, a la Sam Francis and his abstract, splashy paintings in bright hues. Paired with black and white checkered leggings, the models exuded an 80’s feel, and the oversized knitted sweaterdresses and jackets seemed the perfect toppers for the artsy, fashion-forward gal.


(above, Leslie Shows’ artwork from jackhanley.com; some looks from the runway show)

Emily Melville and Ivaka Georgieva produced structured dresses with ethereal marble-like prints that could easily have found their way onto the pages of Vogue. Wool coats and dresses took on unconventional forms through unusual pleating and construction techniques; inspired by the work of landscape artist Leslie Shows the pieces were printed in sinewy grays, thin streaks of coral, and undulating beiges. The fluid colors graced hems and sides; the overall effect was ladylike and delicate.

The Britex Fabric Project showcased the work of a number of different students who used donated Britex fabrics to create paperbag-waisted pants and wool crepe dresses.

(above, Agate Beach photo from visitcalifornia.org; some looks from the runway show)

We also saw student Qianya Martin produce a collection of knitwear interspersed with sheer paneling; inspired by the tide pools and sand of Agate Beach in Bolinas, CA. She created a 60’s silhouette using sculptural knitting techniques, boning, invisible thread, and 3D shaping to fashion volumionous coats an zebra-like dresses in stripes of black and tan, with sheer fabrics in between. “I want people to have an appreciation for what’s beautiful already,” she said. “When we walk down the street, everything we see can have beauty in it, and I tend to live my life like that.”

Finally, student Scott McFarland showed a menswear collection dominated by textural, puffy sweaters with pink and gray diamond patterns woven into the yarns. Art Deco played a significant role in his inspiration for the collection, and he paired the pastel gray and cream hues with loose thermal underwear leggings and knitted accessories. Shape and 3D detailing stood out – though the color palette may have been not masculine enough (read: too fashion-forward) for some.
Overall the AAU show started New York Fashion Week off on an innovative, fresh foot – and any environment that fosters such creativity and forward-thinking while remaining grounded in the realities of surviving in this business – is to be celebrated. We look forward to what these talented designers will move on to in the future.

-Carly J. Cais
All runway photos by Scott Gries, Getty Images for IMG.
As posted by me on FashionTribes.com
Leave Comment

NY Fashion Week: Abaete Fall 2009 Runway Show Coverage

(Shoes photos, Matthew Peyton, Getty Images North America; runway photos, Marcio Madeira, Style.com)

It’s been awhile since Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in NYC has drawn to a close (Feb 13-20, 2009, to be exact) but with Fall already on the way we wanted to pass on the tips and trends we saw only a few months ago.

Drawing inspiration from the group of French dandies called Les Incroyables that formed in the 18th Century following the French Revolution, designer Laura Poretzky showcased a tightly edited, elegantly cohesive Collection. Just as the group of gentlemen focused on tailored, regal pieces evoking a more opulent time, the designer put efforts into shape and fit; creating a sumptuous collection of versatile separates. The palette was sophisticated and muted in vintage-like “tarnished” hues: washed tones of black and gunmetal gray, sterling blue, colonial blue, dove gray, regal purple, and dusty rose. With exquisite tailoring and a focus on the beauty of fabric and texture, this collection stood out as the designer seemed to truly be hitting her stride. And to add the crowning touch: beautiful, drool-worthy shoes (the Antoine, Rousseau, and Dauphin) in velveteen and suede, from the Abaeté for Payless Collection due to be out in stores in August of 2009.

Elegant coats with sewn-in vests, nipped-in jackets with tails, layered silken ascots, slim-cut twill pants, wide swing skirts, tiered layering and petals, and regal striped wool separates evoked a time period of genteel joie de vivre. Jackets were constructed with sewn-in vests in order to function as a double-layered piece in the working woman’s wardrobe. Deep sterling blue silk dresses were shot through with silver lurex threads: the pieces literally looked as if the night sky was walking down the runways. Black and cream, gunmetal gray, and deep blues spoke of romance and longing – and all ensembles were accented by the most intricately beautiful accessories fashioned by jewelry designer Thea Grant: filigree gold brooches, multi-chain gold belts, and tiny pin accents that elevated the look to an entirely new regal level.

The hair and makeup was utterly gorgeous – and stayed true to the Victorian French masculine aesthetic. Beauty.com celebrity makeup artist Tina Turnbow (Tarte Cosmetics), said that the healthy “no makeup” look she did on the models is easy to recreate by first prepping the skin with Caudalie Beauty Elixir ($15), enhanced with grape, rose, and myrrh extracts to brighten the complexion. She then applied Tarte Smooth Operator foundation ($35), which gave a little more coverage than the average tinted moisturizer, to let the models’ skin shine through. She used a little bit of Tarte Lash Hugger Eco-Friendly Natural Mascara ($18) on the eyelashes, and Liquid Sunshine Vitamin-Infused LipGloss on the lips to give a natural rosy gold tone ($21). Finally she applied a dusting of powder over the eyebrows to tone them down and make the look more masculine to emulate the Les Incroyables inspiration. All in all it created a healthy, refreshing look for Fall, pairing with the dark tones of the Collection nicely.

See a behind-the-scenes video footage of the look at http://video.beauty.com/p/107/revolutionary-beauty/

(Les incroyables watercolor by G. Galat, from RubyLane.com; all other photos, Carly J. Cais for FashionTribes.com)

Lead hair stylist Mario Ruiz created super-coiffed pompadours and “basically made [the models] look like 18th-century French rock stars.” He first teased the top of the hair and shaped it into a faux-mohawk rockabilly-type look, and then pulled it back into a reverse French braid in the back, weaving a black ribbon throughout. RedKen WorkForce 9 Flexible Volumizing Spray ($14) was a must for achieving the necessary texture and holding the hair style; and one of its great features is that it won’t flake and you can brush and restyle the hair as needed and it will still hold.

All in all, it was a sumptuous, opulent collection, with fantastic separates, jewelry, and insanely affordable shoes; exquisite styling choices, and a makeup look that was just as doable in the “real world”…it flowed together seamlessly, and felt like one of those rare Collections where every element hit the right note. Bravo!

-Carly J. Cais, as posted on FashionTribes.com

Leave Comment

First Lady of Fashion: Get the Mrs. O Look for Less


With such a fashionable, model-tall First Lady newly in the White House, the buzz surrounding her sartorial sensibilities is proof that fashion and the national mood go hand in hand. To get Michelle Obama’s effortless American-chic look, go for clean, classic cuts, bold colors and patterns, and opt for minimal jewelry – a few smaller pieces speak volumes. Also, like the First Lady, pay attention to the details: the color of a coat’s lining (think the Narciso Rodriguez pre-inauguration camel coat); a belt cinched over an unbuttoned cardigan; a brooch pinned dead-center on the collar of the dress instead of near the shoulder. All add stylish flair and a touch of individuality to whatever you’re wearing, and yet you will still appear appropriate, ladylike and polished.
Here are our Top 5 well-priced (ie. under $100) picks for staples seen on Mrs. O, plus a fun splurge:


1. CLASSIC COAT & FUN ACCENTS We’ve seen a variety of fabulously chic toppers on Mrs. O from a number of designers, ranging from Maria Pinto to Sonia Rykiel to Narciso Rodriguez. What she obviously looks for in a coat is wool, a long A-line silhouette that’s single-breasted, a solid color, and sometimes a dramatic sleeve. Our pick: a timeless camel classic you’ll reach for time and time (and time and time…) again. Accessorize with a dark navy or black scarf, a jumbled beaded necklace a la the First Lady’s Tom Binns necklace, or, if you’re feeling patriotic, a teeny flag pin (made less cheesy by merit of lots of real bling, like this version crafted from diamonds, rubies & sapphires in 18k white gold from HeavenlyTreasures.com). Single-Breasted Long Wool Coat $99.99 (on sale, was $239) – available in Camel, Chocolate, Blackberry, Winter White & Red – at Chadwicks.com.

STYLE TIP: According to reviews of this coat, it’s quite long, so be sure to take it to your fave tailor and get it shortened to the perfect length for you….after all, it’s what Mrs. O would do.

2. COLORFUL MULTI-TASKING SHEATH Lemongrass, sea blue, fire red, fuschia, cobalt, chartreuse, and bottle green…just a few of the bright colors we’ve seen her in. The most popular, however, is probably the iconic purple Maria Pinto sheath she appeared in on the cover of Newsweek. To work similarly vibrant colors into your own wardrobe, follow her style savvy by also choosing a classic silhouette, typically a sheath with princess-seams, a conservative jewel neckline, and flattering knee length. With the right accessories, it’s a cinch to completely transform this wardrobe mainstay: try a high black belt and pearls, a dark-toned cardigan and slick patent pumps, or a looped silk scarf and python-print clutch. Sheath Dress $49 – available in Vibrant Fuschia, Black & Red – at Newport-News.com.

STYLE TIP: The more wild the print or color of a garment, the more timeless its cut & silhouette should be. The tension between the edgy hue and conservative cut is what creates balance, making you look fashionably trendy instead of faddish & fashion-victim’ish.

3. GLITTERY BROOCH The Carole Tannenbaum vintage pin on the center-front of the chartreuse lace Isabel Toledo Inauguration Day dress (be sure to scroll down) was one-of-a-kind, but you can take inspiration from Michelle Obama’s unusual placement choice by pinning a similar sparkling brooch in the same place. For best results, pair with a round-collared coat. This bow-shaped brooch is adorned with Austrian crystal rhinestones in marquise and round cuts, in a shape that is simultaneously contemporary and classic, (not to mention collectible). Eisenberg Ice Bow Pin $45 at MRJewelry.net.

STYLE TIP: For even more unusual ways to wear a sparkly pin, try pinning a wide satin ribbon at your waist instead of a belt, perhaps threading it through a cardigan’s buttonholes as a makeshift closure, or even pinning onto a cashmere beret Gossip Girl-style.

4. LIGHTWEIGHT CARDI Although the J. Crew cardigan ensemble she wore to the Kids Inaugural concert is already sold out, you can still get the punchy color from Gap’s new line in collaboration with Pantone. Chock full of Crayola colors and vibrant hues, it’s a guaranteed way to breathe some fresh life into the doldrums of a flagging economy (not to mention your wardrobe). Superfine cotton and slimmer fit emphasize a feminine figure, while the staggering array of colors – sunny yellow to sorbet orange, tan to teal, black to heather gray – means you’re guaran
teed to find something you love. And the best part? This closet staple is lightweight enough to be worn year-round, making it a sound investment as a layering essential. The new V-neck Cardigan $44 at Gap.com. (Michelle Obama image: dailymail.co.uk)

STYLE TIP: Pair your brightly colored cardi with shoes in a darker hue & a contrasting skirt; snappy combinations include yellow & jewel blue, royal blue& orange sorbet, and spring green with light coral. For an added touch of First Lady fab, cinch with a thin belt worn high on the natural waistline.

5. PATENT BALLET FLATS Steal a page from the Michelle Obama style playbook by pairing a structured dress with an understated flat. Whether you choose go-with-everything black, a metallic snakeskin to rock the season’s reptilian trend, or even sweet white satin, you’ll look Mrs. O-perfect whether you’re in a chic frock, more mod with bright tights and a mini, or slouching casually out the door in cuffed boyfriend jeans. Keepsake black crinkle-patent flats $59.00 at SteveMadden.com.

STYLE TIP: Gently rounded-toe ballet flats are one of the best fashion investments you can make…ever. They are versatile, comfy, and because you can wear them for years, they quickly pay for themselves.

Splurge of the Week: ONE-SHOULDERED GOWN Although she wears many high-end designers, one of the best facets of Mrs. O’s style is that she mixes high with low, proudly sporting pieces from affordable retailers. While the one-shouldered Jason Wu confection she wore to the Inaugural Ball is probably out of most of our pricepoints – a typical Wu evening gown retails between $3,000-$6,000, and the designer has no plans to reproduce the dress for sale – try a similar style that was featured on Inside Edition from eDressMe.com. Even though it only costs about a tenth as much, this version still features a single ruched shoulder with embellishment, a high waist, and a floor-length skirt, as well as tiny flowered sequins similar to the hand-sewn flowers on Mrs. O’s custom dress. One-shoulder white gown $320 at eDressMe.com.

STYLE TIP: With a dress this gorge, the only thing appropriate would be a miniscule white evening clutch to let the ball gown’s beauty shine on its own.

If there are any high-priced pieces you’d like me to find similar, less costly versions of, please email me at carlyjcais AT fashiontribes DOT com.
– by Carly J. Cais, Fashiontribes Contributing Editor

Leave Comment

Stylish Getaway Must-Haves: Much Dash for Less Cash


by Carly J. Cais, Fashion Designer & ChicSteals blog
As a designer, I’ve developed an eye for style over the years along with an appreciation for the fact that sometimes, designer pricetags can be downright scary. While life necessitates a splurge once in a while on that can’t-live-without-it fabulous item, much of the fun of fashion is mixing high with low to create outfits that are creative, and also budget-friendly. Each week, I showcase five hot designer-style steals (each for $100 or, in most cases, for much, much less)…along with one must-splurge item.
If the wild, wintery winds of January are making you want to blow off to warmer climes, you’re in luck – fashionably-speaking! The Resort ’09 Collections were brimming with bold, ocean-inspired hues, colorblocking, and fun, tropical prints. And as you dream of escaping to balmy skies and lounging on the beach, remember: the last burden you need schlep is too much luggage. To pack the ultimate versatility into your excursion, try these five picks for frugal, fabulous resort wear:


SHINY SANDALS Always pack two pairs of sandals: one ratty pair for the beach, and one fabulous pair to wear everywhere else. At $20, this shimmery embellished wedge is as affordable as it is chic (plus it’s vegan – score!) paired with everything from an animal-print caftan, city shorts & a safari-style tee, or with a black silk slipdress that clings in all the right places. Coordinating chandelier earrings and poolside Mai Tai optional…but highly recommended. Regan Sandal $20 at Payless.com.
BREEZY TUNIC Since packing light means versatility, a billowy, graphic blue & white tunic promises to be just as at home in jungles urban or tropical. The pintucks create a semi-fitted shape that looks fab tucked into some cigarette pants, or paired with a matching jacket for that laid-back office vibe. But cinch with a braided gold belt and pair over some super-short shorts, and the look is all apres-beach and pre-dinner cruise. City-Style Tunic $26 at NYandCompany.com.
SEXY EARRINGS Whether you acquired your tan on the beach or from a bottle, a color like aqua is one of the best ways to show it off – especially if you’re rocking texturized, sun-streaked hair. The understated length of these dangly cerulean earrings pops against your jawline, looking beachy-chic whether you’re actually on vacation…or merely planning it in a white buttondown and a black (or brown) suit. Turquoise Stone Earrings $20 at AVMaxAccessories.com.
TEENY WEENY BIKINI Coming in at #8 on Nina Garcia’s list of the Top 100 pieces no stylish woman is without (pg. 25 of The One Hundred: A Guide to the Pieces Every Stylish Woman Must Own), a bikini is what you’ll want to wear under everything on vacation (who needs bras and panties anyway??). In white with a sweet dot-print, this Tiki set offers adjustable coverage in front, and Brazilian coverage in the back. Sexy underneath a sheer caftan; sultry peeking out from under that tight minidress. Kon Tiki Tiki Tri Bikini Top & Bottom ($64 for the set) at Roxy.com.
SAFARI SKIRT Safari resonated throughout the spring resort collections, and we particularly love the bold splash of color at the hem of this chic skirt. Pair with a simple white tee and espadrilles while chilaxing; with a dark blazer when you’re back in the office. Or, for full-on 2009 safari style, go the Sarah Jessica Parker route in Sex & the City with a sheer top and a belted vest. Still long to be on vacation? Be sure to also pick up the alternate color, in a lovely aqua with a deep lagoon stripe at the bottom. Pleated Skirt $73 at Tulle4us.com (one of our fave sources of casual chic threads for work and play).
*Splurge of the Week: FUN FLORAL FROCK A highly important part of a stress-free holiday is heading straight from the pool or beach to swanky cocktails without any annoying obstacles to getting your drink on…such as getting nailed for “improper” attire. Toss this slightly retro frock on over your swimsuit, tuck an exotic flower behind your ear, and be prepared to tango past the velvet rope and straight onto the dance floor. Les Jardin print dress $165 at eDressMe.com.
If there a
re any high-priced pieces you’d like me to find similar, less costly versions of, please email me at carlyjcais AT fashiontribes DOT com.

– Carly J. Cais

Leave Comment

Five Fabulous New Year’s Fashion Resolutions


by Carly J. Cais, Fashion Designer & ChicSteals blog
As a designer, I’ve developed an eye for style over the years along with an appreciation for the fact that sometimes, designer pricetags can be downright scary. While life necessitates a splurge once in a while on that can’t-live-without-it fabulous item, much of the fun of fashion is mixing high with low to create outfits that are creative, and also budget-friendly. Each week, I showcase five hot designer-style steals (each for $100 or, in most cases, for much, much less)…along with one must-splurge item.
Now that it’s a new year, it’s time to put those Resolutions to the test & improve physically, emotionally, mentally, and spiritually…and, while you’re at it, fashionably. Here are our 5 Fashion Resolutions for 2009:




RESOLUTION #1:
DITCH TREND ITEMS THAT ARE SO OVER ALREADY


Spring 2009 Brights by Fashiontribes

It’s painful, but bite the bullet and stash all those items guaranteed to make you cringe in the not-too-distant future: yes, we mean the Uggs, celeb-inspired Love Quotes scarves, and matching velour tracksuits. Ditto busy prints that are not geometric, bold, floral or adorned with butterflies (not stars, though: so 2008). The Spring 2009 fashion forecast calls for color, so put away the grays and give all that black in your closet some oomph with cheery brights. To get back on trend, try one-shouldered outfits, rompers, sheer tops, art-inspired prints, and bejeweled items, as well as 80’s-inspired pieces. Here are some of our picks:


RESOLUTION # 2:
LOOK FAB EVEN ON OFF-DAYS


Get the Look: Gossip Girl’s Blake Lively by Fashiontribes

If you’re feeling under-the-weather or just fashion-challenged, there’s nothing guaranteed to make you feel even more frumpy like a pair of baggy sweats and stained tee. For little or no more effort, you can pull on a casual go-to outfit that’s comfy, chic, and guaranteed to lighten your mood. (Yes, fashion can be both uplifting & inspirational…when you know you look great, that confidence shines from within.) An easy way to pull together some looks you like is by combing through magazines, blogs (like this one!) and even TV shows…professional stylists have already done the hard work of coming up with the looks; all you have to do is replicate them in your own closet. Alternatively, take inspiration from a celeb who has a similar body type and coloring whose style you like; if she looks chic and pulled together, so will you. We personally adore Gossip Girl Blake Lively, who was recently named one of Marie Claire’s Best Dressed of 2008. Here’s what you’ll need to steal her style:

RESOLUTION #3:
PARE DOWN & ORGANIZE THE CLOSET


If your closet isn’t bursting at the seams with unworn party dresses, belts still with their tags on, and way too many pairs of shoes with unscuffed soles – we salute you! For the rest of us, there are just too many options stuffed into the closet, and as a result, a confusing mess. For 2009, we’re planning to donate more and keep less…and then actually wear it. Anything that’s obviously stained, way too small, or somehow never got altered automatically gets purged. And if it hasn’t been worn it in a year, buh-bye! Of the stuff that’s left, why not recruit a girlfriend help you find new ways to create some fresh new outfits? Once we’ve pulled together some fabulous, on-trend outfits, we’re going to snap photos and create our very own lookbook; extra work to be sure, but guaranteed to pay dividends on those OMG-I-have-nothing-to-wear days.

RESOLUTION #4:
STEP OUT OF YOUR FASHION COMFORT ZONE
pan>

Agyness Deyn Style by Fashiontribes

Day after day, most of us reach for the same handful of items. But much of the fun of fashion is about taking a risk, pulling off the unexpected, and being open to trying new things. Even if you’re not feeling Agyness Deyn-level bold enough to rock a taffeta ballroom skirt with a stonewashed denim jacket and spiked hair, why not try at least one thing you normally wouldn’t? You may be pleasantly surprised. Love day-glo but don’t own a single neon item? Instead of a dress, try a scarf. If you’re more rock ‘n roll than preppy, a slouchy striped tee under a blazer is a fab way to meld the two. Trying something new will also help you get additional mileage out of your closet by formulating more go-to outfits than you would have ever thought of while lounging in the safety of that comfort zone.


RESOLUTION #5:
WHATEVER THE OCCASION – OVERDRESS!


We’ve become a nation of fashion slobs by Fashiontribes

People used to dress up. A mere half century ago, even housewives who spent all day cooking and cleaning at home did so decked out to the nines in tight-fitting, crisp hourglass dresses, crinolines, and frilly aprons. Granted, we’re not asking you to don petticoats while dusting or other restrictive garments completely inappropriate to the situation, but the time has come to fight back against the widespread Slide into Slobdom. Since there’s nothing sadder than a closet full of gorgeous stuff hanging unworn, even if you don’t have a fancy function to attend, make up your own and dress the part! Break out those shoes you love and that dress you adore from the back of your closet – even for a short trip to get coffee – just because! As long as you’re chic & pulled-together, you’ll garner stares, extra attention (at worst, they might whisper: “Isn’t she just a little overdressed for Starbucks?” To which we say Pfft!), but more likely you’ll be that woman of mystery who has everyone dying to know what fabulous after-hours fete you’re just now arriving home from.
If there are any high-priced pieces you’d like me to find similar, less costly versions of, please email me at carlyjcais AT fashiontribes DOT com. ‘Til next week, fellow bargain-hunters!

– Carly J. Cais

(photos: Blake Lively – evilbeetgossip.film.com; Agyness Deyn in blue ballgown – vogue.de; 50s housewife – Roman Holiday; Pamela Anderson – The Fashionable Housewife)

Leave Comment

Pin It on Pinterest