Aug 21, 2009 | Fashion
Okay, if someone asked you what images popped into your mind when you heard “nail art,” would it be something like the image below? (Or, art drawn on the head of a nail…for those particularly out there people.)
In fact, most style gurus out there decree nail art a DON’T; declaring it “tacky.” (Okay, the above image is…well, definitely NOT practical, and not really pretty, to be perfectly honest. There was tons of work that went into it, but yeah, it does look a little tacky.) (I also, on a side note, find it funny that say, Marie Claire will declare the exact phrase above…and then the Marie Claire Japan will showcase the nail art of some Japanese celebs in the same month. Different markets.)
Well anyway, the people who think of tacky stuff when it comes to nail art are probably thinking about the above, or the plethora of airbrushed designs that dominate U.S. nail salon art requests.
You guys probably know about this already, but just in case…
Japan has, hands down, the most innovative nail art EVER. Sure it only caught on in Japan in like the mid-to-late 90’s. Sure Koreans are probably known for populating U.S. manicurist/nail art salons. Sure Korean nail art is fantastic too, and Korea has definitely introduced some advances to the industry. But the Japanese have completely appropriated U.S. nail art…and made it superb.
Reverse manicure with clear tips and half moon, and black nail bed + some sequins.
It wasn’t until 1998 that I really started noticing nail art on every trendy girl’s fingers in Tokyo. I mean, growing up there I always felt, no matter how much effort I put into my appearance, I was always sloppy, messy, and uncoordinated compared to the super-clean, super-put-together Japanese girls. They really thought out everything about their outfits…and then in the late 90’s they were perfect down to the tips of their fingers and toes.
I never really saw nail art as “tacky;” it was the crowning touch to a perfect outfit.
{As a side note: I had this dream of becoming a nail artist once…then I realized I only liked doing my nails…and having pretty nail art on them. Nail artists always have messed up nails from doing everyone else’s!
So I routinely practiced on my own nails…until I had a baby. [Okay, a lot of my sentences end that way…not sure if it’s a good or a bad thing.:-)] I did freehand drawing, stamping, and embellishment, as well as acrylic overlay and acrylic sculpture…I’m right-handed so my left hand’s nails would always look fabulous but my right hand’s would be all wonky when it came to sculpture…I still sport a nail piercing from time to time, and still have my gigantic nail art kit which is begging to be used again.}
Acrylic sculpture with 3D “bubble” where rhinestones are actually knocking about in there.
Japanese nail art (though the stuff in magazines runs the gamut from the trendy to the salon offerings, to the challenging, to the more conceptual, “artistic” show pieces like the set at the top) tends to focus more on acrylic sculpture than the U.S. (Though gel nails are now all over the place, I think nail artists still go for acrylic because of the enormous 3D possibilities.) The average customer coming into a nail salon in the U.S. will ask for a French manicure, maybe a little rhinestone or flower detailed on one nail or a toenail, maybe an acrylic overlay (over plastic tips that are glued onto the nail bed). But art actually made out of acrylic sculpture??? Unh unh. [Well okay, you can get that stuff at the nail salons in Honolulu, where the Japanese tourist population is immense…but I’m talking your average salon, even the ones that are featured in magazines as being an “authority” on nails.] I had never heard of it until I was watching late-night Japanese TV when I was 12 and I saw a manicurist create a nail out of this powder and liquid. She put a foil paper under this lady’s nails and created new, long nails out of liquid!! I was floored – how could such a thing exist??? I searched high and low in the U.S. for this magic stuff for years afterwards…and after the internet came kept searching…but the selection was always few and far between compared to what they had in Japan.
Clear acrylic sculpture nails with embedded sliced venetian glass millefiori beads.
It also seems like there is a huge contingent of Japanese girls out there (late teens – early 30’s) who are doing their own nails – and are spectacular at it. Nail art is a HUGE hobby for girls in Japan, yet in the U.S., there might be some people who are gung ho about it, but it definitely doesn’t feature in the forefront of fashion rags, TV shows, or celeb’s styled “looks.”
So just as in introduction….here’s just a smattering from my magazine collection…I know they’re really old but I haven’t felt like buying it since I can’t really do any of this stuff while I have a small child and spend my days doing housework and cooking… {whaaat….you thought I did other things??? You thought I lead a fashionable life??? LOL} But for me, this stuff is still so inspirational and mind-boggling…and, IMHO, it even looks pretty.
Well, except for this. It’s a cool concept (which is why I posted it), but not that pretty. Again, a contest-winning set of nails, not in the “fashionable” category methinks.
Kanoko Miura, personal nail artist to Hamasaki Ayumi (or Ayu…basically, think the Beyonce of Japan). Her nail art is on the more tame side than the typical stuff you see on the fashionistas in Tokyo…but checkout those nails with that paint drip on the ends!! So cool.
Nails with acryclic scultped 3D shapes placed UNDER the tips so you only see the shapes when looking at the tips straight one. Weird.
Blue-tinted clear
acrylic sculpture with air bubbles added via syringe while solution was still soft.
Nails made to look like faceted gemstones by placing carefully-folded foil pieces over soft colored acrylic sculpture.
Manicurist Student Nail Art. Tons and tons of acrylic 3D sculpture. Fab!
Acrylic sculpted nails with working (sculpted) heart-shaped hourglass filled with sand. In case you ever need to time an egg on the go.
Gel-based “bubble” over clear tips with painted art below.
Some salon offerings. It’s really old, but at least you can see the range that appeals to customers over there.
Acrylic sculpture nails with blue glitter nailpolish and embedded sliced seashells and starfish. (They mean “AquaRium Nails” LOL) I was so in love with this idea I went the whole nine yards and actually had mine done specially at a salon so the right and left hands would match – for my animation school graduation. Mine were clear, with embedded holographic foil chips and tiny pink clamshells. It’s hard to see in the photo below, but they’re there.
Hope this has inspired you to start looking at your nails in a whole new light…a blank canvas, if you will, for innovation!
xoxxo
Carly
Photos from NailMAX magazine issues ’00, ’01, Summer ’02, Winter 2002 [they changed their numbering system after a couple issues], Autumn 2003, and Spring/Summer 2004.
And sorry, Martha, for deleting your comment from this original post…Blogger dashboard messed this up and published it in its first draft before I completed my changes. I could only repost it at a later date by deleting your comment! So sorry – no offense intended!
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Feb 16, 2009 | Beauty
On the Spring 2009 runways, hair and makeup revolved around bright colors, 80’s-inspired trends, and a “natural” look. Lush, full eyebrows made a comeback at Charlotte Ronson and DKNY (so put down those tweezers and allow the hairs to grow out naturally); moody smokey eyes and dramatic eyeliner created a sexy bedroom eye at Jason Wu and Nina Ricci; the “no makeup” look ruled the BCBG runway; and a retro 60’s look was the focus at Rosa Cha and Yves St. Laurent. False, thick eyelashes were everywhere, hair was tousled and sexy or in loose updos, eyes and lips were awash in gold, violet, orange, and crimson, skin was gorgeous, lip gloss was rendered obsolete.
Here are five easy-to-copy trends from the shows – and some Chic Steals suggestions for the frugal fashionista to get the same look for a smaller investment (under $20 per item, to be exact):
THE 2009 SMOKY EYE
Smoky eyes never really leave, but the 2009 version is lighter and softer. Though still anchored by thick black lashes and inky liner, shadows are muted and run the gamut from shimmery golden bronze to matte translucent gray. To take the guesswork out of creating the perfect eye, opt for a smoky eye kit with powders perfectly matched for optimal blending ability like Physician’s Formula Shimmer Strips Custom Eye Enhancing Shadow & Liner, Smoky Collection ($10.95). Tailored to specific eye color, each palette is custom-created to add drama and depth to green, hazel, blue, or brown eyes. Pair with pencil liner for the ultimate bedroom effect; we like Almay Blendable Eye Pencil in Black ($7.49). Smudge slightly outwards for a softer look. Finish with a coat (or 3) of thickening mascara – try Cover Girl Lash Blast Mascara $6.79) in Black Royale (black with platinum shimmer).
CHIC TIP: Show off your new smoky eye with a sleek and twisted Narciso Rodriguez-style updo; having your hair off your face spotlights your fabulous makeup, and keeps the look romantic & fresh – instead of edgy and hard. HAIR HOW TO: Start with slightly dirty hair (it hasn’t been washed for 12-24 hours), and into 6 or more sections at the front. Part the rest of your hair in the center and pull back into a French twist or a bun at the back of your head. Twist front hair sections back and around your hairline, adding each new section in as you get to it. Secure under each twist with bobby pins, and do the same for the ends at the back of your head. Finish with a strong-hold, shine-imparting hairspray to keep everything in place, such as Paul Mitchell Freeze and Shine Super Spray Firm-Hold Finishing Spray ($10).
BRIGHT COLOR POPS
The runways were awash this season in rainbow shades of color: Zac Posen, Temperley, and Erin Fetherston chose deep purples; Gucci and Giorgio Armani gravitated towards an ocean-inspired turquoise eye; tangerine lids were seen at Rodarte; bright strawberry and tomato lipstick ruled at Nina Ricci and Louis Vuitton. Though intense and bold, the colors can be easily translated for everyday wear by following these simple rules: Lest you wish to channel Mimi from the Drew Carey Show, accent only one feature at a time with bright color.
To re-create those deep cerulean eyes, choose a long-lasting and deeply-pigmented formula, like Ben Nye Lumiere Grande Color Eye Shadow ($9) in Cosmic Blue and Turquoise, layering it over black liquid liner for mermaid-like eyes. Another deeply-pigmented formula, such as M.A.C. Eye Shadow in Orange, ($14.50) can be applied lightly with a brush to achieve a tangerine-colored eye, or applied heavily for a bright orange a la the Proenza Schouler models. Revlon Matte Lipstick in Strawberry Suede ($7) can help create that gorge matte tomato lip like Moschino Cheap and Chic, and you can also pick up Revlon’s Really Red at the same time since they are Buy 1 Get 1 Free at Ulta.com.
CHIC TIP: For that sexy, big hair accompanying the sirens at Gucci, try Nexxus Phyto Organics Maxify Volumizing Mousse ($12) massaged into the roots of towel-dried hair, blown out with a diffuser attachment, and then sprayed with a smoothing serum to add shine.
THE NO MAKEUP LOOK
Many models looked fabulously “au naturelle”, but in a way that was anything but spartan. The flawless skin at Donna Karan showcased lush, natural eyebrows that were merely trimmed; the models at Anna Sui sported a ruggedly bronze look, as if they had been hiking outdoors all day. With so much emphasis on looking natural, this is a look that works perfectly off the runway as well.
What could be better than the same foundation they used at Lanvin & Oscar de la Renta? It’s just under $10 and as close as Drugstore.com: MAX Factor ColorGenius Foundation with Minerals. Layer it on over a moisturizer, serum, or a primer with smoothing compounds in it; we like Caudalie Beauty Elixir ($15)
for smoothing, tightening pores, and providing an instant burst of radiance. (It can also be applied over your makeup to freshen up throughout the day.) For the bronzed gypsy look like at Anna Sui and 3.1 Phillip Lim, try award-winning MeetMark Pro Bronzing Powder ($8); add more to your basket and get free shipping with orders of $35 and the code MARKFS35. An eyeshadow sheet like In a Wink Instant Eyeshadow Sheets ($6) in Glow Bronze adds depth; plus, it’s a perfect application every time.
CHIC TIP: Keep tresses smooth & shiny with Garnier Fructis Sleek & Shine Weightless Anti-Frizz Leave-In Serum ($5.99). Even if you don’t have time for a blow out, after brushing straight with a paddle brush, apply the serum and follow with a layer of light-hold hairspray.
METALLICS, METALLICS
At some shows, regally-gilded lids and cheeks ruled in subtle, shining shades, while at the other extreme were icy shades layered over pale pink blush and shimmery white eyeliner, creating an slick, ethereal look. Either can work well as is for both day and night; office or on the town; and both are easy to re-create. DSquared2 combined muted gold shadows smudged around the eye; Oscar de la Renta and Missoni gilded eyelids in full. To re-create either look, try L’Oreal HIP High Intensity Pigments Concentrated Shadow Duo in Dynamic 828 (Gold & Olive), $7. For a softer version, take your cue from Peter Som, where makeup artists highlighted just the inner corners of the eye with the shimmery shadow, and softened the look with chocolate brown mascara.
To re-create the icy look seen at Prada, Balenciaga, and Emporio Armani, layer an iridescent glow over pale pink powder blush on the cheekbones; try E.L.F. Mineral Glow in Shimmer ($8). For a wide awake eye, use Sephora Slim Pencil in White 222 ($5) to line all the way around, or just highlight the inner corners and under the brow for a more subtle interpretation. For the crowing touch, it’s all about a metallic nail color. If you’re in the mood for gold, try ULTA Nail Lacquer in Gold Digger ($5). Gravitating towards silver? Revlon Nail Enamel in Silver Screen.
CHIC TIP: Both gilded and the icy eyes & cheeks look best with everything else toned down. Try a subtle pink or nude lip; for added sheen and depth, layer iridescent highlighter over the lipstick on your Cupid’s bow. Further emphasize sleek makeup a la Cynthia Rowley or Prada: with tight ponytails and smooth chignons. When pulling hair back, use a fine-toothed comb to smooth, and then finish with a spray of shine-enhancing setting gel or hairspray. If there are any flyaways, a toothbrush loaded with hairpray on it is your best friend.
RETRO SIXTIES
Retro-style cateye eyeliner, lush lashes, nude lips, and shades of pink are back. Thanks to a prevalence of pinks and nudes (and despite the black liner), hair felt soft and youthful. At Rosa Cha the eyes were lined with pale pink liner and dark mascara; Yves St. Laurent models sported hard bouffants reminiscent of the sixties, and at Rag & Bone eyes were full-on rimmed with black.
A beautiful pastel cheek can be created easily with Mark Flip For It Spring Color Kit ($20) in Tokyo…the bonus is that it comes with a shade perfect for that slightly-pink, girly lip, and purple shades that can be wet down and used as a softer eyeliner. If the deepest, darkest black liner is what you’re looking for, try waterproof E.L.F. Liquid Liner in Black ($1) and wing it out for a cateye effect; build up a heavy line and then smudge it like the models at Lanvin, or rim around the eye completely like at Rag & Bone. (Love Mark makeup? Add $25 worth of product to your bag – and use 2SHIP2009 to receive $2 shipping.) When going full-on black with your eye makeup, keep the rest of the face soft and romantic as a counterpoint to the dramatic eyes. Line the outside of lips with Cargo The Reverse Lipliner ($14) and fill in with the liner and a touch of lipbalm for the ultimate nude lip. Finish off with a pair of dark false eyelishes to recreate that perfect sixties look. False eyelashes not your thing? Try collagen-infused Maybelline The Colossal Volume Express Mascara ($5.99) for something similarly doe-eyed.
CHIC TIP: To mimic the voluminous updos seen at Yves St. Laurent and the soft buns at Carolina Herrara, soft-hold hairspray is a must. Begin by teasing the undermost layers of hair to create a mound of faux volume. Smooth over the topmost layer, twist up into either a French knot or a bun, and spray everything with the hairspray, accessorizing with a thin headband for the YSL look. Or simply let loose strands fall from your bun for a pretty, feminine interpretation.
– Carly J. Cais, Contributing Editor
(photos: Greg Kessler – style.com; Dan & Corine Lecca – harpersbazaar.com; Mark Leibowitz – glamour.com; Fabio Pettinari – Marie Claire; Sean Cunningham – harpersbazaar.com)
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Nov 5, 2008 | Fashion
Although it is already five years old and known primarily for it’s eco-chic focus, it’s only been since 2007 that
Portland Fashion Week has made the entire event earth-friendly and sustainable. From construction of the actual runway with eco-friendly materials like 100% recycled rubber balls (!), using eco-safe styling products on models, and sustainable-certified hotels for our guests, whenever possible, the city is leading by example. And unlike the $150,000 minimum to participate in New York Fashion Week, Portland keeps it low key and locally-focused, charging a much more down-to-earth $1500. As a result, up-and-coming designers can actually afford to show, infusing the usual commercial bent of most Fashion Weeks with an interesting indie element – such as
eco-champion Lizzie Parker, and
Project Runway winner Leanne Marshall of
Leanimal, who is known for her support of sustainability and eco friendliness.
Overall, the look for Spring/Summer 2009 was about drapey tops over tailored shorts and pants, dominated by black, cream, and hot pink, accented with brightly printed breezy organic cotton dresses reminiscent of nature.
Here are some of the highlights:THE COLLECTIONS:
Sameunderneath; Saffrona; Revivall; TOP: Lucia; Sofada; BOTTOM: Lizzie Parker; Idom
Standouts from this year’s collections included the breezily casual printed tees, structured shorts, and surprisingly intricate crocheted tops of Sameunderneath. Opening with a vignette starring two models (including Cloudy October, pictured at top), the line was inspired by the Cuban Revolution, and gave off a distinctly travel-themed look. Shades of cream, olive, and hot pink dominated, and at the end, founder Ryan Joseph Davis Christensen walked the runway, proudly displaying his “VOTE HOPE” t-shirt. (Sameunderneath.com)
Saffrona Classics was an entire collection fashioned from a revolutionary new blended fabric developed in Germany made from wood-pulp fibers and seaweed. Vitamin- and mineral-rich, Seacell also has a microscopic silver content, rendering it antifungal, antimicrobial, and antibacterial – none of which diminish even after repeated trips through the washing machine. This fabric not only “breathes”, but is lightweight and soft, which translated into flowing gowns and dresses. Since Seacell is only manufactured in black and white, to create other colors designer Sarabeth Chambers used everything from beets to Kool-Aid to impart her clothes with a bright pop of color. (Saffrona.com)
Like a mishmash of vintage and Dior, Rivivall Clothing mixed ecletic prints, lacework, plaid, Victorian flowers, and corsetry. The models dripped with pheasant feathers and draped gold chains, set off by the dusky denim blues and golden lace palette of the clothes. Paired with Western-style cowboy boots, the whole look lived up to its self-described “burlesque hilly-billy.” By piecing together secondhand fabrics, designer Laura Lee Laroux produced less waste in fashioning distinctive one-of-a-kind pieces. (RevivallClothing.com)
Lucia showcased fun prints and chic workwear, while Sofada by Alice Dobson featured tailored suits, funky swimwear, and printed dresses. Seattle-based Lizzie Parker showed her line of drapey dresses and fluid bamboo jersey tops, and Idom showed cute dresses made of silk and handmade cotton lace imported from the designer’s native Thailand.
STUDENT DESIGNERS & OTHER COOL STUFF:
A re-imagining of the Little Black Dress by the Art Institute of Portland produced an array of insightful and interesting student work; though not necessarily commercially viable, the pieces were nonetheless thought-provoking and chic. The particularly Balenciaga-esque silhouette (far left) was created from a puffy ski parka fabric (!), but somehow completely worked.
And finally, these Papier Couture dresses were fabulous, made completely out of paper – folded, cut, glued, sewn, molded – and insanely gorgeous, with touches like origami cranes decorating the hem. The dresses were shown on Day 1 of the shows, and then placed on display in the entrance foyer for the rest of the week. Read more about the line and designer Lia Griffith at Papier-Couture.com.
SWINGIN’ 60s HAIR & MAKEUP:
An interesting constraint on the designers was that the same models were being used in each show, so with no time for a full makeup redo between shows, the look had to coordinate with all the various collections. Lead Makeup Artist Sunny Fire chose to channel the 60s, with a black cat-eye, matte satin skin, and
a reddish-tinted lip from Fire’s eponymous line, Alima Pure, and M.A.C. (in particular, their Nourishing Lipbalm in Cranberry, and Viva Glam 1 lipstick). For one particular model who only walked in the Sameunderneath show on Day 3, Fire added a peacock feather eye to coordinate with the boho theme. All three makeup lines use recyclable containers, and Alima Pure is made from 100% certified natural minerals.
In keeping with the makeup, the hair similarly channeled the sexy 60’s. To vary the look from night to night, Lead Hairstylist Eric Alan Nelson, founder of Portland-based Sidlab, relied on Sidlab’s Pacifica Salt Water Spray for natural, beachy texture and a work-in spray called Chic which delivers flexible hold that can easily (and quickly) be restyled – all the while retaining “monster” body. The final day of the shows had a more L.A. rocker vibe, which Nelson matched with Ultra, a piecing paste which adds both shine and texture. Not only are all of Sidlanb’s products paraben- and SLS-free, but they are recyclably packagd, and manufactured using sustainable practices. (Available at Edward Wadsworth)
xo
Carly
(runway photography: ThePhotographers.us; Art Institute of Portland runway – Pete Kim)
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Oct 26, 2008 | Beauty
Hair & Makeup on the runways were both executed in the most eco-friendly manner possible. Lead Makeup Artist Sunny Fire used colors from both her eponymous makeup line and from Alima Pure; lips were awash in their Cranberry Nourishing Lipbalm or M.A.C. Viva Glam 1 Lipstick. (Cosmetics from Sunny Fire Makeup, Alima Pure, and M.A.C. all use recyclable containers, and Alima Pure makeup is made of 100% certified natural minerals.)
The looks on the runways were mostly 60’s-inspired, with a strong black cat-eye, mat
te satin skin, and a reddish-tinted lip. Since the makeup had to work for all the shows on a given night (the same models were used in each show with little time in between to redo the face), the looks had to be striking but coordinated with the variety of outfits each model wore. For one particular model who walked in only one show on Day 3, Sunny Fire added a peacock feather around one eye in order to blend with the feather jewelry and boho-theme to the Sameunderneath show.
The hair was, again, 60’s-inspired – with lead hairstylist Eric Alan Nelson, founder of Portland-based Sidlab, varying the look from night to night. To work with the models’ natural texture he used Sidlab’s Pacifica Salt Water Spray to create a loose, uncontrived look, scrunching in a natural, beachy texture. With the aid of Chic, a work-in spray, he was able to give flexible hold to the models’ 
styles and then restyle them quickly in-between shows, all the while retaining “monster body” and a “soft, sexy, feminine look.” On the final day of the shows (which had a more L.A., rocker-vibe) he used Ultra (a piecing paste), which added shine but gave the hair an edgy rocker texture. All of Sidlab’s products are paraben and SLS-free, packaged in recyclable packaging, and manufactured using sustainable practices – and are available for purchase from Edward Wadsworth online (and they’re also running a 15% off promotion for Breast Cancer Awareness Month – enter code sidlab at checkout).
(photos from left: Lead Makeup Artist Sunny Fire, Lead Hair Stylist Eric Alan Nelson, the Twiggy-style look on Day 3, a model getting her hair done with Chic styling spray, the hair and makeup look on Day 5)
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